The southern Tyrrhenian Sea offers a long summer season, providing the perfect opportunity for an exciting sailing experience in favourable weather. From April to October, a holiday in Sicily is always a great idea; even better, a holiday on a sailing yacht.
Today, we’ll explore a small stretch of sea where sailing is more than just a cruise — it’s a journey through the elements of water, air, earth, and fire, intertwining to create the unparalleled destination of the Aeolian Islands.
Difficulty of the itinerary: Medium
Route: Marina di Portorosa - Vulcano - Lipari - Panarea - Stromboli - Salina - Alicudi - Filicudi - Marina di Portorosa
Length: 140 nm
Author’s bio:
Renzo Crovo, an Italian architect and avid sailing enthusiast since his teenage years, has extensive experience racing dinghies (420, 470 & Strale) and later on IOR and ORC cabin cruisers. Currently, he not only navigates for transfers and cruises but also competes in regattas in the IRC and ORC classes throughout the Mediterranean.
A bit of history of Aeolian Islands
To explain the essence of this little patch of sea, we must look back to Ancient Greece. Mythology tells us that this archipelago was inhabited by Aeolus – the god of the winds – who was entrusted with it by Zeus, the ruler of the Olympian gods.
Today, these seven islands, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are the stage for extraordinary volcanic phenomena, breathtaking scenery, fiery sunsets, dreamy coves, and crystal-clear waters. In other words, an unparalleled showcase of this volcanic archipelago; a place of incomparable beauty overlooking the northeastern coast of Sicily.
The sprawling Aeolian Islands of Salina, Alicudi, and Filicudi.
Renting a sailing yacht at the Marina of Portorosa
Our voyage starts from Marina di Portorosa, a high-quality facility developed in the 1980s, born from the dredging of a semi-marshy area.
The complex features a canal port extending up to 4,000 metres, with approximately 650 berths for boats ranging from 6 to 35 metres, all surrounded by lush greenery.
Its convenient location and accessibility from the airports of Catania and Palermo make it the gateway to the Aeolian Islands archipelago, offering the opportunity to set sail through a string of pearls resting in the deep blue of the southern Tyrrhenian Sea.
What to know before sailing in northern Sicily?
Despite the legend, the wind during the summer months is not particularly strong; in fact, the islands are generally caressed by light breezes, making the route suitable even for less experienced sailors.
However, before setting off – as always – it is good practice to carefully prepare the itinerary, take note of the landing points, and check that they will be sheltered from the sea and wind under various weather conditions. By now, we’ve learned that this is how a responsible skipper ensures the safety and comfort of their crew.
We’ve chosen to sail the route in a counterclockwise direction, covering around 140 nautical miles, with the first stop at the island of Vulcano.
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Finally, the itinerary through breathtaking Aeolian islands
This tour is, above all, a journey into the heart of Mediterranean nature, a dive into Greek mythology, and an opportunity to witness the spectacular sight of an active volcano.
Day 1: Marina di Portorosa – Vulcano, 16 nm
You’ll begin your immersion into the mystical Aeolian Islands with just a few hours of sailing: only 16 nautical miles separate our departure port from the island of Vulcano.
The image is for illustrative purposes only, and we do not recommend sailing to the area in case of increased volcanic activity.
Three and a half hours after setting sail from Portorosa, we can enjoy our first dip in the welcoming waters of Cannitello Beach, overlooked by the Gelso lighthouse. Here, you can drop anchor and relax for a few hours.
After this first taste, you can sail up along the east coast of the island and reach one of its most inviting bays: Baia di Levante. Here, after anchoring off the Spiaggia delle Acque Calde (Hot Water Beach), you can wait for the sun to dip a little, as the summer temperature cools slightly, and take advantage of the dinghy to go ashore. From there, you can embark on an excursion up to the Gran Cratere (Great Crater), where you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of this slice of paradise from above.
Gran Cratere Volcano and its mystical atmosphere
This is probably the most spectacular and evocative spot on the island. Surrounded by fumaroles and bright yellow sulphur stones, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the entire archipelago.
To continue our mystical journey, before night falls, we’ll return to the boat and slowly sail through the Bocche di Vulcano, a kind of channel about a mile wide that separates Vulcano from Lipari.
The sight of Lipari’s towering sea stacks ahead is one of the most beautiful vistas in the whole archipelago.
Not far away is Ponente Bay, which offers a safe haven for the night. From here, you can admire the twilight and then spend the night anchored securely, thanks to the shallow, sandy seabed.
Between the two bays lies the village of Vulcano Porto, a small settlement where you can enjoy a pleasant evening and sample local cuisine in one of the taverns overlooking the harbour.
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Day 2: Vulcano – Lipari, 3 nm
The morning sail is very short: less than three miles separate the two islands. In less than an hour, you’ll find yourself in front of the mighty 16th-century fortress walls of the castle. Within these walls, you’ll also find the imposing Cathedral of San Bartolomeo, perched dramatically above the sea on the rocky cliff that separates Marina Corta from Marina Lunga, the main town of Lipari.
Panorama of Lipari Island with the historical fortress and the San Bartolomeo Cathedral.
Just a little further north, you'll find Pignataro Marina, the largest and most well-equipped port in the archipelago.
Lipari: a blend of history and natural beauty
Once you’ve chosen your mooring spot, you can secure the lines and prepare to disembark. The island, once a Greek colony known as Meligunis, is the largest in the archipelago with about 9,000 inhabitants. In addition to the small town of Lipari, there are four other settlements: Acquacalda, Canneto, Pianoconte, and Quattropani, all connected to the town by a scenic road that runs along the island. Lipari is also renowned for its production of Malvasia wine.
Not far away lies the true defining feature of Lipari: the white mountain of pumice stone, which was a quarry until a few years ago. This area offers stunning landscapes. At the foot of the quarries, you’ll find one of the most enchanting stretches of sea, the White Beach, where the water takes on Caribbean-like colours.
This magnificent part of the coast ends at Punta Castagna, an ideal spot for snorkelling enthusiasts, and the Gabbiano Beach, another must-see location.
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Day 3: Lipari - Panarea - Stromboli
Departing from Lipari, it takes less than two hours to reach the smallest of the Aeolian Islands and our destination for the third day of this cruise: Panarea. Our first encounter with the island will be what is rightly considered Panarea’s most beautiful bay: Cala Junco. From the beach, you can climb up the cliff along a path that leads to the prehistoric village, offering stunning views along the way.
Cliffs of Panarea Capo Milazzese
Panarea: dive into glamour
This is probably the island where it will also be easiest to anchor. Panarea is one of the most renowned spots in the archipelago, the heart of nightlife and a favourite destination for VIPs. In the village streets, you’ll find boutiques, lounge bars, and very fashionable clubs.
After Cala Junco, those who wish to can – perhaps with the help of a dinghy – reach the next bay, Cala degli Zimmari, another stunning spot with a sandy seabed that allows for calm and very safe anchoring. For the more cautious, there is also a mooring field in the area.
Other mooring fields can be found near San Pietro, where the inhabited centre and the island’s landing point are located.
Another unmissable area for a swim is between Bottaro and Lisca Bianca. This is a zone where diving and snorkelling enthusiasts will encounter a true natural spectacle — over 200 volcanic vents, known as Terra Fumante.
Here, we can observe the characteristic fumaroles, where gas bubbles rise to the surface.
The next stop of the day is the stunning Stromboli, whose beauty comes from its unique colours and scents: the high cliffs and black pebble beaches in contrast with the typical small white houses, and the olive trees with their soft grey-green leaves.
One of the 4 active volcanoes in Italy: Stromboli
Stromboli and the thrill of the volcano
If you want to enjoy a truly unique sight, set sail at sunset towards the western side of Stromboli and admire the volcanic eruptions from the volcano's crater. Be careful, though — the volcano is no joke, so make sure to keep a safe distance.
Day: 4 Stromboli – Salina, 20 nm
Leaving Stromboli, set course towards the welcoming island of Salina. Life here moves at a slightly slower pace than on lively Panarea, but it’s still a delightful place with attractions such as the historic centre that branches out from Santa Marina square.
Houses with a lighthouse at the foothill of Salina Island.
The journey covers approximately twenty miles: departing from Stromboli, you’ll pass Strombolicchio and its lighthouse on the starboard side before setting a direct course for the breathtaking Santa Marina Bay. Here, you can drop anchor in front of the dramatic cliffs, and from this spot, a path will take you to the picturesque Lingua Beach.
To reach Lingua beach, you can use a dinghy; alternatively, you can moor at the marina or in one of the transit spots at the pier near the hydrofoil dock. Just keep in mind that during the day, the constant movement of commercial boats causes an annoying wake.
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Day 5: Salina - Alicudi - Filicudi
Heading up the coast, just before setting course westward, you’ll reach the spectacular Capo Faro, one of the island’s two lighthouses, where the imposing cliffs rise steeply from the sea.
As you sail along the northern coast, a stop is a must at what can truly be described as a masterpiece of nature: the stunning natural arch of Pollara, with its peculiar shape resembling an elephant’s trunk.
Natural volcanic arch formed from lava in the proximity of Pollara city on Salina island
Before setting sail for Alicudi, it’s worth preparing to drop anchor here in Pollara bay and enjoy the breathtaking scenery that opens up in front of the famous beach.
From the bay, you can also spot in the distance the wildest and most untouched of the Aeolian Islands: Filicudi and Alicudi. The ideal anchorage is between Scoglio Faraone and Punta Perciato, just before the natural arch. Those keen on snorkelling can explore near the sea stack, where there is an emerging rock nearby.
Alicudi: where time stands still
We now head towards Alicudi, the most remote island of the entire archipelago. Here, the definition of “island” seems to find its perfect expression. There are no paved roads, no pharmacies, no trendy spots, and no means of transport other than donkeys, on whose backs people move from one place to another. Time here truly seems to have stood still, offering a sense of peace that, for at least a few days, everyone should experience.
Day 6: Filicudi
This tour so far has been quite demanding: many stops, numerous anchorages, and lots of excursions. It’s worth taking a moment to pause before concluding our cruise and truly unwind. We have the perfect place for that: Filicudi. In under two hours of sailing, you’ll reach the island, which offers a safe haven in the harbour. Here, you can anchor near the small pebble beach or secure a spot at the mooring field, surrounded by the breathtaking bay that gracefully unfolds from Capo Graziano.
A second mooring field is located at Pecorini Mare, near the Bue Marino caves. On land, a visit to the archaeological site of Capo Graziano is a must, where the remains of a Bronze Age village can be found. From here, you’ll also enjoy a magnificent view.
Day 7: Filicudi - Portorosa
Filicudi marks the final stop of our Aeolian Islands itinerary, with the seventh day reserved for a calm and scenic sail back to Portorosa. If the weather is on our side, we’ll enjoy a truly unforgettable day of yachting, surrounded by enchanting and wild landscapes that capture the soul of every sailor who navigates these waters.
What will you bring home from this cruise?
A sailing cruise through the Aeolian Islands offers unforgettable emotions: the serene sounds of nature, breathtaking landscapes, and volcanic wonders like Stromboli under the stars. These are memories that stay with you forever.
Let’s find you the perfect yacht for your ‘la dolce vita’ experience.
