Cyclades

The gateway for yachtsmen is Thera Harbour at the inner part of the crater. You anchor here with your bow to the large buoy—stern to the breakwater, so you will need some really long ropes. Getting a berth here is usually not easy, particularly during high season when there may be "too many boats".

The town of Thera, which you certainly know from Greek postcards, rises high around the harbour. You can get there on foot, by cable car, or on donkeys or mules. The view from the small white buildings into the crater is certain to take your breath away. The crater was formed from a huge volcanic eruption sometime around 1450 BC, its intensity three times more powerful than the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883. The volcanic cone was destroyed, the island ruptured, and a marina lagoon formed in the middle over an area of 84 km square which is now, a little paradoxically, the greatest attraction on the island. The explosion created a powerful tsunami which reached all the way to the Spanish coastline, and is probably responsible for the disappearance of the Minoan culture on Crete. You can see the remains of this tragedy in the small town of Akrotiri, known as the "Greek Pompeii", where you will find some remarkably well-preserved ruins of the Minoan city, including part of a villa with a mosaic floor, a three-storey house with frescoes, a mill, and a ceramics workshop.

Oia, is a true oasis of tranquility, a majestic village rising up over the eastern part of the island on the edge of the cauldron-shaped crater of the volcano—the caldera. Yachtsmen will be fascinated by the Maritime Museum.

On the eastern coastline, you will also find the ruins of the town of Arkhea Thira, the ancient Thira, which offers an amazing view of the sea.

If you sail to Nea Kameni early in the morning or before the sun sets, you can land right at the breakwater. We recommend that you moor up, bow anchor—stern to the breakwater to protect from the side waves that sometimes flow into the bay. You will best enjoy the true atmosphere of this place at dusk or dawn. And there won’t be any tourists or ticket collectors! There is a small chapel with thermal springs on the northeastern side of Néa Palaia Kamméni. You can anchor here, at a relatively great depth, or moor up to one of the buoys, and sail below the chapel into a bay with ferrous-red water where you will find the thermal springs and warmer water. Bathing in the stinky mud here is great. Sail here in the morning or evening if you want to enjoy the intimacy of the place with no crowds of tourists. If you want to sail through the strait between the two small islands, then do so only during the day. Maps of this area are not precise and some extensive and rocky shallows here must be avoided.

There are several interesting little islands in the caldera and its surrounding area, the largest being the Nea Kameni volcano which was active until quite recently. It stands on the eastern part of the island. You have to pay to get onto the island and walk to the top with a crowd of tourists who have come on boats from Santorini. Separated only by a narrow, shallow rift southeast of here, lies the small island of Néa Palaia Kamméni.

The island of Ios is the final resting place of the great Greek poet, Homer. According to legend, his mother came from this island and the poet retired here shortly before his death in search of peace and quiet. Other sources state that he died on a boat sailing to Athens. Either way, his grave is located in the small town of Plakotos in the mountainous north of the island. A Homer Festival is held here every year on 15 May, when a procession is made from the harbour where Homer died, carrying burning torches, all 10 km to his grave. Other than that, the island is a mecca for younger visitors, indulging in the exuberant way of life here, in particular during high season. If, like Homer himself, you long for peace and quiet, you will find this on Psati and Kalamos beaches, or you can set out inland and visit the Kalamos and Mount Pyrgos monasteries. If you sail further north, anchor for a while at the islands of Skinousa, Dhríma, Kato, or Koufonisos. They are not in any way exceptional and that is precisely what makes them exceptional—they are an oasis of tranquility in high season.

Ios Harbour

From Santorini, you must sail in a northerly direction. You will recognise the harbour in Ios from a distance thanks to the Venetian fort on the hill and the two windmills situated somewhat lower. You can sail into the basin, bow or stern ahead. The northern quay is reserved for fast ferries until 18:00 in the evening, and is available after that under the supervision of the police. It is important to use a lot of fenders and maintain a sufficient distance from the quay, as even small ferries are able to cause quite a swell. The bottom is muddy, but ideal for holding your anchor.

The next part of the route leads between the islands of Naxos and Paros. When Cycladic culture blossomed, Naxos became one of its centres. Later, the island was conquered by the Venetians and subsequently by the Turks, and these influences left a considerable impact on the local architecture. The capital is the bustling Naxos with a marina providing water and electricity.

Paros is the third largest island in the area, famous for marble mining, which was shipped from here to the best sculptors in all of Greece. Due to its natural abundance and fertility, Paros does not need to attract tourists as other Greek islands do. Even so, it is sometimes very busy, especially in the season when the island attracts surfers from all over the world. In the capital city of Paros, or Paroika, the magnificent Panagia Ekatondapiliani Cathedral dating back to the 10th century is definitely worth visiting. It is a wonderful architectural example, constructed from locally quarried marble . Nearby is the Archaeological Museum, concealing, among other things, a unique part of the Paros Marble Chronicle. The port of Naoussa at the north of the island has become a very trendy location where you can sit in a pleasant environment with a glass of good island wine or plate of delicious local food. 

Naxos Marina

You will know you have arrived when you see the marble arch on the Apollonas peninsula, as well as the abundant ferries in port. Be careful of Vrakhos Frouros, a reef 2 km WSW of the harbour. In 2000, a ferry was shipwrecked here. The top of its mast is still visible above the water and is marked by a buoy. Problems can also result from ferries sailing at high speed. During a strong Meltemi, expect big sea swells and heavy gusts. Water is located at the ferry jetty, and also at the café on Apollonas. You can refuel at the near-end of the jetty, from where a mini-tanker will come to you. You can buy provisions at the market behind the marina, where they will also fill up a bottle or two of good wine for you, directly from the cask.

On the way up to the walls of the Venetian fortress, you will go through a tangle of arches, tunnels and bridges passing a number of cosy pubs and restaurants along the way. One of the most impressive monuments on the island is the Portara Gate, which stands on the island of Palatia, where a road leads to the mainland. Originally, it was the entrance to the Temple of Apollo, whose construction began in 53 BC. The local valleys are particularly attractive. Visit the Livadi Valley where marble was quarried, or Melanes and its typical Venetian towers, or Tragaia dotted with charming, mountain villages.

Beautiful ancient churches can be found in the village of Chalkio, where you can find accommodation with some of the local people and get to know Greek hospitality more intimately. For some good fish, head to the Apollonas resort at the northeast of the island. Behind the village in the ancient marble quarries stands an old, unfinished sculpture of the god Apollo more than 10 m high and dating back to roughly 600 BC The beautiful beaches are Ormos and Avraam at the north of the island, or Moutsunu in the east. Local souvenirs worthy of attention are the woolen products, delicious honey, and tasty cheese.

Paros Harbour

You can pull in both either bows-to or stern-to, the bottom is muddy and grassy but the anchor usually holds well. If the inner part of the harbour is full and the sea is calm, you can land on the outer side of the jetty. When there is a strong Meltemi wind, it is better to drop anchor in one of the bays north of the harbour. The harbour offers all the necessary yachting facilities, including well-equipped stores and repair shops. Water is available on the waterfront—you just need to locate the person in charge of it. You can find fuel in the suburbs, or a tanker can come to you at the pier. There is also a sailmaker in the harbour.

Warning

The harbour’s bay is surrounded by many rocks, small islands, and shallows, so it is necessary to be extremely cautious and to thoroughly study the area in advance. In 2000, the Samina Express Ferry was shipwrecked here when it hit the Portes rocks and more than 80 people lost their lives.

There are impressive ruins scattered across the expanse of the island, the most famous being the Terrace of the Lions. They guard the Sacred Lake, which according to legend, was witness to the birth of the god Apollo. In 1926, the lake was filled-in due to the threat of malaria, and its presence is only marked today by the wall that once surrounded it. Originally there were nine, 7th century lions carved from Naxos marble, but only five survive today and those are kept at the local museum. The former lake is now guarded by amazing replicas. You will want to visit to the theatre dating from 300 BC and the mosaic houses—The House of the Dolphins, The House of Dionysus, and Apollo's Shrine with the remnants of three temples standing side by side.

Delos Harbour

The next stop is the arid, uninhabited archaeological gem, the island of Delos. A large sign in the small harbour prohibits yachts from docking, and it was forbidden to anchor overnight in Órmos Fournoi. However, it was recently reported that anchoring is now possible until 15:00, and some yachts have even managed to stay overnight.

Visitors are forbidden to stay here overnight in order to protect one of the rarest archaeological sites in Greece, and there is only a small café, so it’s a good idea to stock up in advance.

The city of Delos was very rich and impressive, and its remains are very well preserved. I recommend visiting in the early morning. It opens at 08:30 and there are fewer people here at that time; the monument is closed on Mondays. You can anchor in the northern or southern part of the channel between Rinia and Delos. If a Meltemi is blowing, someone must stay on the boat to watch the anchor. When exploring the remains of the city, you will be amazed by the homes. In the bathroom you will see marble washbasins cut straight out of modern Italian design catalogues. If you sit on a marble bench in one of the homes and close your eyes, you will be able to feel the joy and happiness experienced by the local people during the millennium when the city dedicated to Apollo was inhabited. People were not allowed to die on Delos, so the old, the sick, or pregnant women were exiled to the nearby island of Rinia. Here you will not experience such a joy.

The calling card of this sun-baked island is its traditional Cycladic architecture, represented by a tangled maze of alleyways made up of densely arranged, white houses with coloured exterior staircases, as well as scenic windmills from the 16th century. You can visit the island of Dilos from here by boat, the ticket price being the same as on Dilos, the return journey being included in the price. A very attractive part of the town of Mykonos is a busy art district, called Little Venice for its seafront houses and elegant metal balconies. A fortress from the 15th–17th centuries rises above it.

Mykonos has always been a culturally independent island, evidence for that being the Museum of Folk Traditions, which is one of the most important Greek museums of its kind. In the archaeological museum on the waterfront, expect an interesting exposition of finds, partly from the nearby island of Dilos. Obligatory for yachtsmen is the Marine Museum (Enoplon Dynameon, closed from October to April), whose exhibits map the colourful maritime history of the area.

Mykonos Marina

Anchoring is no longer in the old harbour, but at the marina about 1.5 km north of it. The orientating landmark is the hotel that is reminiscent of a classic American car's radiator. Anchoring is bows-to, stern-to, or even alongside the southern pier at the pool. If you do not land sideways, you will need to use your own anchor, as moorings are mostly reserved for larger boats and ships. The water and electricity supply is flawless, and the local mini-market is well-stocked and open from 07:00–23:00. Transport to the centre is easy and inexpensive, a taxi costing EUR 2–8, and the bus, costing EUR 2, leaves every 30 minutes up to 21:30.

The marina is north of the city and you have to travel there by bus or taxi. I recommend renting motorbikes instead, and taking a trip around the island, the rental place is about 500 m from the marina. Mykonos is famous for its nude beaches and well-known night-time bars. The island is a place where artists, musicians, bohemians, and the cream of Athenian society meet. I recommend visiting a night spot with live music, perhaps Jazz. There are excellent musicians here and the nightclub atmosphere is fantastic.

An especially attractive location for yachtsmen is the little known island of Kythnos. It is arid and virtually unsheltered from winds. Its coastline, however, is extremely rugged and offers countless tranquil bays that beckon to you to take a dip in the sea. Very interesting is Loutra Harbour with a hydropathic institute and also the smaller, picturesque Merikha Harbour with water and electricity.

Anchoring

You can anchor to the pier in the bays of Livadhi or Vourkari. In Livadhi, landing is from the bow with stern ropes to the pier. The bottom is muddy and grassy, and anchors may not always hold well. Leave space clear for the ferries right behind the pier. This is a good shelter from the ever present Meltemi. You can refill water in Korissi, but in summer the quantity may be limited and rationed. Here, you’ll find a shop and tavern. Vourkari is located in the NE branch of the bay. The bottom slopes downward steeply, so it is preferable to pull in bow first and make sure you have ready enough chain or rope. Also, make sure your anchor is holding well and you are far enough from the shore, as the Meltemi blows right toward the waterfront. Moorings are located on the eastern side of the point, but it is also possible to drop anchor in the bay in front of the pier. At the pier you will find water and electricity, as well as a shop and tavern.

An alternate option is to anchor in the north arm, in front of the coal bunker. There are no underwater cables here, but the anchors may not always hold due to the muddy and seaweed covered bottom.

Just 22.5 km from Kea Island is a bay beneath Cape Sounion, boasting one of the most romantically situated ancient temples in the whole of Greece. The temple of Poseidon, ruler of the seas, was built in 444 BC, and its 16 slim Doric columns are still standing today. The scenery of the temple is so fascinating that one of its admirers was the renowned romantic poet Lord Byron, who carved his name on one of the pillars.

I recommend visiting the temple at sunrise, while it is still closed to the public. Disembark the boat in the small bay east of the cape and climb the steep slope up to the temple. The first morning rays of sun, descending along the marble columns, down and gradually illuminating the entire temple, create an unforgettable atmosphere. Of course, the temple can also be visited during the day by entering the main gate with many other tourists. From Cape Sounion, it is 20 NM to the Alimnos Marina and 8 NM to the port of Lavrion, where your voyage ends.