This unbelievably charming island is located far out on the open sea and only experienced yachtsmen who long for divine tranquility and pristine nature dare journey there. The island of Lastovo and its adjacent islands were declared a natural park in 2006 and are also listed by the World Wildlife Fund.
Lastovo is a paradise for yachtsmen, surfers, divers and sports fishermen. There are calm bays and fairytale beaches often only accessible by boat. The sea is extremely clean, with an abundance of fish. According to many experts, the area has the world's richest fishery of blue fish (plava riba), lobster, moray eels and other, valued fish species. A permit is required for fishing, costing HRK 60 per day or HRK 150 for three days.
You will also be pleasantly surprised by the healthy, very tasty and original cuisine. Only organic local ingredients (herbs, olive oil, wine, fruit, vegetables, goat’s and sheep’s cheese, lamb) and first-class marine fish caught in the surrounding waters are used. Local specialities include grilled sardines, homemade bread, tagliatelle with lobster and prawns (lobster paste, a traditional, local speciality), calamari and prawns, eel goulash, goat roast, roast lobster, freshly cooked fish (riba na bijelo—dory, kanic or pražma) and lamb. The excellent food is perfectly complemented by the local wine, Maraština.
Ubiquitous greenery, crystal clear waters brimming with life, and unspoiled medieval stone houses like a cinematic backdrop all contribute to the incredible charm of this place. There is no doubt that the islands are among the most beautiful in the Adriatic.
The village of Lastovo
The island has retained its individuality due to its remoteness and the presence of a navy, which had its base here, up until 1992 (before 1988, foreigners were not allowed on Lastovo). Tourism was not cultivated and the population declined. Today, there are only 700 permanent residents on the island, scattered around seven villages. There is one hotel, along with several small guesthouses and private apartments. Most of the population lives in the village of Lastovo (the main centre on the island), lying high above the sea, on a slope overlooking a valley. The most unique features of this village are the medieval stone houses (the inhabitants did not need to build new houses and maintained what their ancestors built) and endless stone stairs instead of streets. One of the most reliable means of transport here is the mule. Renaissance villas with spacious terraces, renowned chimneys in the shape of minarets (fumari), and beautiful folk costumes and traditions have all been preserved. Each year a carnival is held on the island where the people recall the victory over Catalan pirates who had occupied neighbouring Korcula and headed at last for Lastov. The men began arming themselves while the women and children prayed to St Juri, who duly heard them and set a storm upon the Catalan fleet on its way to Lastovo, destroying it. Lastovo is also home to a well-known music festival (jazz, rock, blues). The island is the second sunniest and most forested island in Croatia (second only to Hvar) and in summer, a pleasant Mistral or Levant wind blows. Around the island are pleasant walks and cycle paths (a fragrant forest and low elevation).
I recommend stopping in the north of Lastovo Island at the well-protected Zaklopatica lagoon. There are mooring berths here with electricity on the piers in front of several restaurants. Definitely go on foot (about 40 minutes uphill) or drive to Lastovo, which lies on a hillside facing inland to the island and cannot be seen from the sea at all. This feature protected it from the pirate raids. Lastovo is a beautiful and quiet town, where time has stopped. When you stroll through its streets and walk through the overgrown meadows around, you feel that you just might meet Jesus herding sheep. The location’s magic will surely enchant you. Most residents left the island and went to the cities on the coast, and so, especially in autumn the town appears as a city of ghosts. A fee of about HRK 30 per person, per day must be paid for landing at Lastovo as it is a national park.
Skrivena Luka Bay, Zaklopatica, Posadur, and Lučica (a truly picturesque harbour with original, refurbished fishing houses) are all definitely worth visiting. Above Skrivena Luka Bay is the Struga lighthouse (built in 1839, the oldest in Croatia, the keeper there inherited his craft from his father and grandfather, and incidentally, it is also possible to stay there). The Lastovo archipelago comprises 46 adjacent islands, islets and reefs. It is definitely worth seeing the island of Sušac (13 NM west of Lastovo, with nice, small bays that serve as fishing boat anchorages as there is an abundance of fish in the waters around the island, and a 40 m long beach), but equally worthwhile are the smaller islands of Kopist (also known as Kopiste, fishing bays, good swimming), Saplun (also good swimming), Mrčara (with the largest occurrence of crayfish in the Adriatic), Prežba, Makarac (hermits lived there), Sestrice, Vlašnik and Glavat (a lighthouse)—the latter three islands are a fishing paradise.
The lighthouse on the island of Lastovo
Zaklopatica—a well-protected bay and anchorage (dangerous wind, only from the NE), with four restaurants and two jetties offering berths with water and electricity connections and WiFi. Because it falls under the administration of Dubrovnik, there is a charge for anchoring on the western side of the bay. The fee is HRK 150 for a 10 m yacht, HRK 40 for electricity, and HRK 20 for waste. On shore you will find a store with groceries and a cycle-hire shop, showers and toilets. You can buy fresh fish and lobsters here.
Skrivena Luka—is a nice bay and anchorage and in front of the Porto Rosso restaurant is a pier with moorings, water and electricity connections, and WiFi. At the waterfront are good showers, toilets, and a laundry room with a dryer. Dangerous winds and waves from the S and SW. When the Bora blows, violent gusts are often experienced.
Lučica—a picturesque bay and anchorage, with gorgeous and original reconstructed fisherman’s houses. Dangerous winds from the N and NE. In the small harbour there are often waves and breakers. You can also anchor in the adjacent St. Mihajlo Bay.
St Mihajlo—where there is a landing pier belonging to the village of Lastovo. The bay is protected only if the wind is blowing SW or SE. When the stronger Bora, Tramontane, or Mistral are blowing, it is better to leave the bay.
Ubli—is a ferry port, with the opportunity to fill up with water (100 L for HRK 30) and there also is a fuel station.
Tips for restaurants: the Santor (Zaklopatica), the konoba Fumari (Lastovo), and the pizzeria and bistro Amfora. Lastovo, is recommended for its good food and very good prices.